Chickpeas, Lentils, and Rice October 4, 2008
Posted by KG in India, Travels.add a comment
There’s not much to see in the stretch of Gujarat from Bharuch to Navsari, at least for a tourist. That’s why my work trip there was all the more interesting — it was my chance to see a new part of India, one that’s off the beaten track.
I ended up at visiting a tiny village two hours from the nearest city, touring a rice mill that processed a couple of tons of rice a week, and walking on a beach a few kilometers north of Dandi.
Not pictured: Gujarati thali. Total amount of daal, vegetable curry, chhole, dhokla, and chapati consumed? Certainly more than I’ve had over any previous 40 hour stretch, and mostly delicious.
So that’s one more state of India down, and I’m a bit sad that the majority of the trip was spent on work, in a town a bit less than attractive. But Gujarat’s not far, and once I’ve knocked a bit more off of the old “Things to See in India” list, maybe we’ll head back.
Working on my Mahodara September 10, 2008
Posted by KG in Food, India, Mumbai.3 comments
The Ganesh festival is in full swing here. To celebrate, a group of us went to see what we’re told is the richest Ganesh idol in the city, probably putting it in the running for richest worldwide. The idol isn’t the one pictured above. That’s one I saw a few weeks earlier, when I took an impromptu and unplanned tour of an idol factory.
After seeing the idol, we decided to treat ourselves to a nice vegetarian dinner at one of our favorite restaurants. There, praying for all obstacles to be removed, I singlehandedly ate a giant dosa.
If you can’t tell, it was about four feet long. And six inches in diameter when rolled. Eating it took an hour, and I’m not quite sure when I’ll be able to look at a dosa again.
Travels with Saheba September 5, 2008
Posted by KG in India, Traveling, Wife.2 comments
The most popular woman in the greater Aurangabad area last weekend was my wife. Everywhere we went, she turned heads. Local children were rendered speechless. Grown men clamored for her photograph. Teenage boys followed her around every turn, and ignoring the beautiful surroundings repeatedly asked for the favor of one moment of conversation with her.
If I were exagerrating, I guess that would be funny. But it’s actually no exagerration – more than one person was yelling loudly until the moment they saw the wife, and then went silent; we were followed up hills and into caves by groups of rail-skinny teenagers, all trying to gawk at the white girl; we did pose for more than one photo with groups of people we don’t know and will probably never see again. And since it’s true, it actually only started as amusing. After the fifth or sixth time hearing someone yell “Foreigner! Ma’am! Firangi! Photo!” we started the stiff-arm, please-no-photos routine. You’d probably get annoyed too.
Our driver explained that most of the folks following us around were people who had only seen Caucasians on television. That I can understand — but what I don’t understand is the indiscreet fascination. One person out of the scores was polite about it, telling us in halting Hinglish that he’d never seen a real white person, had never left Maharashtra, and wanted a picture to show he’d met one. Not that polite necessarily means true, but it’s better than yelling “Which country? Picture!,” I suppose.
None of this is reason to avoid traveling to the Indian boonies. Just be prepared to deal with curiousity that’s a bit… direct.
Three Days Away September 4, 2008
Posted by KG in 1, India, Photos, Travels, Wife.add a comment
On the first of our annual Labor Day weekend trips. (Having your anniversary coincide with a three day weekend: Smart!):
We went climbing all over Daulatabad Fort Monday, just after seeing the tomb of Aurangzeb and before the fake Taj. That was day three of our trip, after Ellora and Ajanta. Three days away from the city, our chance to see the other 90% — or is it 75% — of India, the rural, agrarian side that’s not evident in Mumbai.
Many a word could be written about the trip, but instead, here’s me showing off some shots from the new camera.
We Spent Our First Wedding Anniversary… September 2, 2008
Posted by KG in India, Travels, Wife.add a comment
Climbing a medieval fort in beautiful rural Maharashtra. With some other ancient sites added for good measure.
More photos to come!
To the West is the Sea August 26, 2008
Posted by KG in India, Mumbai, Photos.add a comment
The ultimate cause of our internet (and cable television) woes was revealed while up on our roof. Apparently none of the interior wiring in the building works, so the provider, who has a monopoly on the area, has littered the terraces with coaxial cable:
Getting up on the roof was an unexpected bonus. We’d been waiting for the cable guy for four and a half hours — internet service providers are apparently all cut from the same cloth. When he showed, we jumped on the chance to follow him up to the rooftops. His lateness meant we got to go up on the roof at sunset, which led to some striking shots of the city.
Man, when I grow up I want a roof lawn of my very own.
East is West (Bengal) August 23, 2008
Posted by KG in Calcutta, Family, India, Photos, Travels.add a comment
As mentioned, we went to Calcutta last weekend, where the wife got a heavy dose of in-laws. Her first trip there was also a good excuse for us to be actual tourists — something I haven’t had a chance to do in many years. Unsurprisingly, it was another major Indian city, and thus felt only slightly more relaxing than Bombay. (If anyone comes to visit and can come up with a place less relaxing than Bombay, please let me know so I can avoid it.) That said, the trip gave us the chance to see some bits of older India, like…
hand-pulled rickshaws…
old, winding lanes…
the Victoria Memorial…
… (which was cooler than I remembered)…
… a massive line at Dakhineswar…
… Ma Ganga at sunset…
… and my Grandmother, aka Piu Piu.
It’s pretty enlightening to view Calcutta through the lens of living in another Indian city. I’d always associated it with crowds, traffic snarls, and filth. But after being in Bombay for three months, Calcutta almost felt… serene. Strange, how perspective works.
God Bless Ornery Old Women August 21, 2008
Posted by KG in Calcutta, Family, India, Travels, Wife.3 comments
We got back from Calcutta Sunday, and I’ve got some great pictures to show from my trip. Unfortunately, our home internet is being a bit difficult and we’ve been busy. To tide you over, here’s a poorly lit picture of my wife in a sari, with my grandmother and one of my many, many aunts. (I’m still trying to figure out the camera settings…)
When I asked my grandmother what she thought of my wife, she replied curtly: “I like her more than I like you!”
Quiet Place August 14, 2008
Posted by KG in Mumbai, Traveling.add a comment
We’re on a plane to Calcutta tomorrow, for the wife’s first in-country travel outside of Brihan Mumbai. We’re pretty excited (or at least I am… she may be a bit nervous). Now it’s been a rough week — and mostly a rough month. So the most exciting part? The plane ride. Finally! A quiet place that isn’t home. Where I can sit and relax and actually read in peace, with no honking horns or thumping music. Sure, it’ll only be for a few hours, but man those few hours are going to be great.
A trip out of Mumbai couldn’t have come at a better time. Though I’d argue you can find just about anything in this town, the one thing I haven’t found yet is a quiet third place — not the office, not home — where I can just sit listen to myself think. There are a few coffee shops here and there that come close, but nothing sufficiently insulated from the rush of the outside world.
Surprising that I miss solitude and quiet. I spent the better part of a year and a half dreading it.
New Toy! August 9, 2008
Posted by KG in Mumbai, Photos, Technology.add a comment
After a good two years of camera envy, I finally took the plunge and bought a digital SLR. A good bit of research led me to the Canon XSi. I almost bought a Nikon D80, but at the end of the day picked the XSi based on price, since its starter package was about $200 cheaper. More money for future lens purchases!
I’m still learning the ropes of a non point-and-shoot — ISO, aperture, metering, etc. If you’ve got some photography expertise or any reliable references for a beginner, let me know. Of course, I generally prefer learn-by-doing. So: here are some shots from around town with my new toy.
The local garlic hydrant.
St. Stanislaus Church, Bandra.
A house on Chapel Road, Bandra.
Our neighbor, in her new boutique.
We’ve got some travel to some picturesque places planned in the near future, so stay tuned.
