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Three Days Away September 4, 2008

Posted by KG in 1, India, Photos, Travels, Wife.
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Looking at AjantaIMG_0605

On the first of our annual Labor Day weekend trips. (Having your anniversary coincide with a three day weekend: Smart!):

We went climbing all over Daulatabad Fort Monday, just after seeing the tomb of Aurangzeb and before the fake Taj. That was day three of our trip, after Ellora and Ajanta. Three days away from the city, our chance to see the other 90% — or is it 75% — of India, the rural, agrarian side that’s not evident in Mumbai.

Many a word could be written about the trip, but instead, here’s me showing off some shots from the new camera.
BibiqamaqubaHer Hair Looks RedRickshaw Rushes in the RainLying Buddha

Adventures in Long ExposureMarisa's Almost ThereBuddha's LifeThe Ajanta Caves from Above

IMG_0603IMG_0779IMG_0754Kailas
An Offering to ShivaIMG_0772Shrine Bell1

To the West is the Sea August 26, 2008

Posted by KG in India, Mumbai, Photos.
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The ultimate cause of our internet (and cable television) woes was revealed while up on our roof. Apparently none of the interior wiring in the building works, so the provider, who has a monopoly on the area, has littered the terraces with coaxial cable:

A Mess of Wires

Getting up on the roof was an unexpected bonus. We’d been waiting for the cable guy for four and a half hours — internet service providers are apparently all cut from the same cloth.  When he showed, we jumped on the chance to follow him up to the rooftops. His lateness meant we got to go up on the roof at sunset, which led to some striking shots of the city. 

Worli-Parel Skyline 1

Marisa at Sunset

Bandra Rooftops
Man, when I grow up I want a roof lawn of my very own.

East is West (Bengal) August 23, 2008

Posted by KG in Calcutta, Family, India, Photos, Travels.
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As mentioned, we went to Calcutta last weekend, where the wife got a heavy dose of in-laws. Her first trip there was also a good excuse for us to be actual tourists — something I haven’t had a chance to do in many years. Unsurprisingly, it was another major Indian city, and thus felt only slightly more relaxing than Bombay. (If anyone comes to visit and can come up with a place less relaxing than Bombay, please let me know so I can avoid it.) That said, the trip gave us the chance to see some bits of older India, like…
Rickshaws

hand-pulled rickshaws…
Badur Bagan Lane

old, winding lanes…
In Front of Victoria Memorial

the Victoria Memorial…
Entrance

… (which was cooler than I remembered)…
The Line for the Kali Mandir

… a massive line at Dakhineswar…
Ganga at Sunset

… Ma Ganga at sunset…
Piu Piu

… and my Grandmother, aka Piu Piu.

It’s pretty enlightening to view Calcutta through the lens of living in another Indian city. I’d always associated it with crowds, traffic snarls, and filth. But after being in Bombay for three months, Calcutta almost felt… serene. Strange, how perspective works.

New Toy! August 9, 2008

Posted by KG in Mumbai, Photos, Technology.
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After a good two years of camera envy, I finally took the plunge and bought a digital SLR. A good bit of research led me to the Canon XSi. I almost bought a Nikon D80, but at the end of the day picked the XSi based on price, since its starter package was about $200 cheaper. More money for future lens purchases!

I’m still learning the ropes of a non point-and-shoot — ISO, aperture, metering, etc.  If you’ve got some photography expertise or any reliable references for a beginner, let me know.  Of course, I generally prefer learn-by-doing. So: here are some shots from around town with my new toy.

The local garlic hydrant.

St. Stanislaus Church, Bandra.

A house on Chapel Road, Bandra.

Our neighbor, in her new boutique.

We’ve got some travel to some picturesque places planned in the near future, so stay tuned.

The Lungs of Bombay July 22, 2008

Posted by KG in India, Mumbai, Photos, Traveling.
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Living here is nice, sure, but sometimes Bombay is just too much city, even for those of us who love urban life.  So Saturday we decided to take a break from the city and head north for some actual nature.  It was a smart idea…

Besides lush greenery and wildlife, the park also had some ancient Buddhist caves…

The literature seems to imply that the caves are not as impressive as others in the region. If that’s the case, I’m excited to do more exploring.  Bombay’s great, don’t get me wrong — but I’m convinced that getting out of the city is a necessity for one’s sanity.

Oh, and for the one person out there (hi Mom!) who’s missing me the most, here’s a photo.  And for fun — more monkeys!

Documentary Evidence October 26, 2006

Posted by KG in Blog, Dhaka, ExPats Elsewhere, India, Photos, Travels.
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Thanks to MC’s internet, I’ve uploaded a whole ton of photos to my flickr account. A preview:

An AdmonishmentMarisa and Me

New Market, DhakaEkushey

Cha!Leading you to the Pandal

I’ll try to write up some of the stories behind the photos when I can.  Any requests?

Nature is Delicious May 26, 2006

Posted by KG in Friends, Pakistan, Photos.
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So as you've probably guessed, I ended up in the mountains last weekend.  It took a good deal of planning, a small amount of subterfuge, and a whole lot of luck — getting permission to go to previously uncleared places here is a bear.  But from the time the initial idea was brought up it was our full on goal to get on a plane and get the heck out of Dodge.  Thus it was that five of us boarded PIA flight 340 at 1 PM last Friday and ended up in rural Pakistan, or at least part of it. The Pakistan where they live on subsistence farms. Where there is no City FM.  Or City. Or FM, for that matter.  Where the definition of road, as Dakota was fond of saying, was stretched pretty significantly.  We were in the previously-forbidden Swat Valley, where during the day we crawled on rocks and agitated our insides on the aforementioned roads.   At night, we sat around a fire and enjoyed clean air and actual stars.  No armored cars shuttling us about, no badges around our necks, no guards and no Marines (though there were many guns; come on, we were in Pathan land), no bland planned city.  Our trip was tinged, unfortunately, with a light patina of certain doom around every corner.  Pretty much from the moment we stepped on the plane, I was sure we were about to die.  PIA flights, sketchy village meals for $1.67, rock slides, jingle trucks forcing us into a ravine, poison trout, slipping down a snowbank into rapids, random Pathans with large guns, random Pathans with larger guns, fire pits that did a great Roman candle impersonation, sketchy goat milk tea, rickety bridges, and did I mention PIA flights?  There was quite literally terror around every corner.  It was awesome.

Getting out of Islamabad and into the boondocks was exactly what the doctor ordered — a heavy slug of nature in a country where the natural beauty is untapped.  The sheer potential of Pakistan as an adventure tourism destination is staggering, with prices that rival a night for four at a baseball game.  Its amazingly beautiful, clean, with some of the most kind and hospitable people I have ever met.  Maybe that's because they could see I had money.  Well, fine by me.  We learned that it costs 500 rupees (that's $8.33) to have a Pathan sherpa carry your lunch up a mountain — so I was more than happy to appear like a rich man.   

The problem with the trip: coming back and hitting the ground running.  I think I may have teased myself with the 48 hours of relaxation, because come work on Monday it was full steam ahead, with the usual chaos that comes part and parcel with being in a resource-strapped consular section.  More chaotic, even, with people on leave and the load spread thinly across the rest of us.  Oh, and wires exploding, screaming baby applicants, and screaming adult applicants.  Really, normal for here, but after a refreshing tonic of river breezes and fresh trout, it hit like a brick to the face.  In fact, it has taken me a full four days to write this blog entry.  Why?  Just too busy.  Argh.

I'm intent on repeating this sort of trip a few times while I'm here.  Currently, I'm trying to think of ways to justify a trip to Hunza, which would be absolutely amazing, and kind of unheard of in post 9/11 Mission Pakistan.  The valley has a lot to offer in terms of weird things I like — followers of an odd offshoot of Islam, huge forts, language isolates, beautiful people…

For now though, memories.  Cheap meals, kalashnikovs under tarps, fresh fried fish, scary mountain roads, beautifully shy children, and flat tires.  An idyllic weekend all around. 

Soaking in the SunKalam ValleyHoneymoonFishing

The Dreaded Snow WallThe Rushing SwatGlorious SunAt the Beginning of the Trip

The Best 48 Yet May 22, 2006

Posted by KG in Pakistan, Photos.
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For two glorious days, I was here.

DSC00395

Yes, this is in Pakistan. And it was everything the doctor ordered. Details and tales to come.

Kilim All May 10, 2006

Posted by KG in FS Life, Islamabad, Pakistan, Photos, Shopping.
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To bring things back to a more positive note, I thought I'd share my latest and greatest purchases here in the IRP. My usual channels for spending money (or, more affectionately, "Jinnahs") are largely unavailable here, and quality antiquities, handmade crafts, and various textiles are far easier to obtain than Oregonian microbrews. The end result? Lots of good decorations for what will one day be a cluttered, schizophrenic home, and a smaller gut (inshallah).

Uzbek KilimOne of my rug-selling friends knows that I'm headed to Uzbek-land eventually, and thought it prudent to tell me he had obtained an Uzbek tribal kilim, an item I haven't seen much of here. Now it graces my entryway, where I see it and often think "I could probably have bought this cheaper two years from now." Still, its unique and I've not seen many other people with them, and that alone makes it a good purchase.

Lonely ChobiThe same dealer sold me this "chobi," a smaller rug that has yet to find its final resting place here. The dealer that sold it to me is a booster of locally made rugs, and this comes from his family's own production line. The cool thing about this rug is that there are no dyes in it. Instead, its all made of different colors of wool (presumably from different sheep, though maybe there's some sort of psychedelic multicolored sheep out here), and these colors will never run.

Old SaddlebagsRug in my Foyer

I've got two pieces I think are nomadic Baloch in origin: a pair of stuffed saddlebags (or probably more exactly, camelbags) and a rug that may or may not hail from Afghanistan. To tell the truth, I'm not sure of the origins of the one on the bottom, as it was a total on-a-whim purchase. Its in my house where a runner should be, since I haven't gotten around to buying one. I haven't found any runners that really catch my eye. Surprising, considering that most everything I've seen has caught my eye here.Prayer Rug

I couldn't resist this prayer rug, which is also Baloch. The pattern is meant to mimic the traditional Muslim prayer posture, and in deference to that, this rug has to be somewhere where I can have the head and hands westward, towards the Kaaba. Most Baloch prayer rugs seem to only have a central line of symmetry, but this is the only one I've seen to actually have the shadow of the body as its pattern. Oddly enough, my definitely Moslem housekeeper doesn't seem to get this fact, and whenever he vacuums he gets the placement of the rug wrong.

Ganesh, Teapot, FlaskFinally, a few things that are not meant for (as the good lady pointed out) my still very empty floors. In the back left, a British flask from the WWII era and an Egyptian teapot that from the style and workmanship is at least 50 if not 100 years old. No, neither will be used, but they are nice little additions to my tchotchke collection. In the foreground is my good friend Sri Ganesha, who has been traveling with me since my last trip to the Mother Country. He's sitting on an antique Kashmiri shawl, a piece I still regret showing my friends. Authentic ones are fairly tough to find here and now everyone knows where to get them.

Not pictured here is the rosewood chest I'm having custom made. Its on its way down from Peshawar and should be arriving any day now, secret drawers and all. There's still more furniture to buy, as well as more suits and shirts from my local guy — all with only 10 months left. Sigh. Whenever will I find the time?

Free advice for those who like that sort of thing (free advice, that is): cheap local crap is easy to find, but avoid it. You are far better off with a few beautiful things than a gaggle of cheap knick knacks. The exception is anything that can be classified as disco-esque. More on that to come (ooh, foreshadowing!).